What
makes a recipe easy?
4.1
novelty, 4.2 inspiration, 4.3 modesty, 4.4 instruction, 4.5 context
Unfamiliarity
unfamiliar
results
*
Inspiration
Photographs:
Given that cooking is at this stage in our history an entirely voluntary
activity -- nobody in the United States has to cook who doesn't want to--
inspiration comes first in my criteria for what makes a recipe or a cookbook
easy. If it doesn't get me fired up, I'm
going to find myself bored; annoyed; burdened; and eventually, in the checkout
line with a rotisserie chicken.
And
what makes a cookbook inspiring? Nine
times out of ten these days, it's photographs.
I
used to feel ambivalent about how much I am influenced by food
photography. After all, I started
cooking when there were no photographs in cookbooks, or sometimes a few inset
in a special glossy section. When I look
at those photographs today, I am amazed that they didn't seem revolting when
the books were first published. The food
is obviously shellacked; the dominant colors are khaki, fawn, and puce; the
plates are contextualized with elaborate, heavy napery, candelabras, and
silver; the Shakespearian expression "funeral meats" comes readily to
mind. In those days, a cookbook had to
pull its weight by its words.

The
cookbooks that enthralled me were Elizabeth David's (nasty little line
drawings), Julia Child's (instructive drawings), James Beard's American Cookery (no illustrations), Roy Andries de
Groot's Feasts for All Seasons
(typographic sorts, the clip art of its day), Claudia Roden's A Book of Middle Eastern Food (no
illustrations), Paula Wolfert's Couscous
& Other Good Food from Morocco (instructive drawings, dreadful grainy
b& w photos).
blah
blah Diane Seed, Valentina Harris, blah blah
blah
blah James McNair blah blah
blah
blah Brits blah blah
*
inspiration:
informative titles and headnotes
*
inspiration:
favorite ingredients
*
inspiration:
text design
*
instruction
writing:
comprehensible components (sub in bought components)
*
writing:
clarity, accuracy, friendliness
OK,
what exactly is clarity? A piece of
writing is clear when it helps me understand something I wouldn't
otherwise. Fair enough. But if I didn't understand it, how can I tell
whether I now do? Maybe I still don't
understand it.
So
I can't judge clarity directly, but perhaps I can sidle up to it.
I
could see whether it explains something I already understand in a way that I
think would be helpful to someone who does not understand.
I
could try to find such a person and watch whether understanding increases from
reading the explanation.
I
could see whether the explanation of something I partly understand makes me
understand it better.
And
of course I can tell when something is not
clear when it explains something I already understand and makes me … understand
it less?
On
the contrary, reading something explained badly often helps me to understand it
better.
Truth
and clarity should be orthogonal:
|
|
clarity |
opacity |
|
truth |
clear and true |
opaque and true |
|
falsehood |
clear and false |
opaque and false |
Ah,
would that it were all so simple. If a
text is sufficiently opaque, no one can tell whether it's true or not. (Usually including the author.)
But
note that if I already understand something, reading a text of any of the four
kinds, clear and true, clear and false, opaque and true, opaque and false, can
help me understand it better. If I don't
understand it, clear and true is the only thing that helps. Clear and false is treacherous – I'll start
thinking I understand it, but I won't.
Opaque and true, opaque and false – I still won't understand anything,
and I'll be confused and angry to boot.
We
can observe texts that are self-contradictory.
Also texts with gaps.
"Clarity
in writing basically means expressing yourself clearly."
"Clear
writing indicates clear thinking." Not
so, or everything well written would be right.
*
apparatus:
page design (pages or spreads), page turns, chapter design
*
apparatus:
clean typography (type size, dark type color, serif/sanserif)
*
apparatus:
glossary
*
apparatus:
cross-reference
*
apparatus:
ingredient list keyed to steps
*
apparatus:
index
*
familiar
ingredients
*
short
ingredient list
*
inexact
measurement (not everyone agrees)
*
equivalent
measures
*
familiar
methods
*
few
true steps
*
timing:
"until" plus minutes
*
timing:
lots of latitude in times
*
go-withs
and menu suggestions
*
what
the cook brings to it: skills, equipment, organization, concentration, environment,
attitude
*
Einstein
alas did not say: "Make everything as simple as possible, but not
simpler." (He said something more
complicated.) We have leagues still to
go in the direction of simplicity.