In
the simplest case, the title tells you what you need to know about the dish the
recipe aims to make:
Grilled Salmon with Peas, Potatoes, and
Mint
[Gordon
Hamersley: Bistro Cooking at Home p. 155]
Lentil Salad with Mozzarella and
Prosciutto
[Georgeanne
Brennan: Williams Sonoma Salad p. 94]
Roast Chicken with Rice and Nut Stuffing
[Mark
Bittman: How To Cook Everything p. 362]
Maple Glazed Carrots
[Jack
Bishop: Vegetables Every Day p. 83]
Modern
recipe names tend to spell out the main ingredients in the dish, as do the
names in modern restaurant menus. As
eaters we are on the one hand increasingly fearless about new ingredients and
new combinations; on the other hand, we learn more every day about nutrition
and food sensitivities. Both trends make
us interested in the make up of dishes that are new to us. When my good grandma made beef stew, it was
well understood to contain cubed stew beef, carrots, potatoes, and onions,
flour gravy, and some sprinkled parsley "for fancy." Now that I'm a grandma myself, my beef stew
could as easily contain preserved lemons and green olives; or black-eyed peas
and dried limes; or daikon, soy sauce, and star anise. The lactose intolerant, accustomed to
bypassing cheesecake, will be delighted to try silken almond tofu cheezecake.
Some
of these long names roll on pleasantly, some are a touch comical with
overcompunction:
passionfruit yoghurt syrup cakes
[Julie
Le Clerc: Little Café Cakes p. 34]
endive salad with meyer lemon, fava
beans, and oil cured olives
[Suzanne
Goin: Sunday Suppers at Lucques p. 37]
Six-Bean Salad with Horseradish,
Giardiniera, and Pickled Red Onion
[Charlie
Trotter: Charley Trotter's Vegetables p. 156]
Some
names may be perfectly clear to some readers but not to all. Editors should help authors see where more
explanation is needed:
Lavender Pistachio Pavlova
[Jerry
Traunfeld: The Herbfarm Cookbook p. 270]
Traunfeld's
headnote explains, "A pavlova is a large meringue filled with fruit and cream."
Mussels Gratin
[Ruth
Reichl, editor: The Gourmet Cookbook p. 334]
Reichl's
headnote says, "Steamed mussels meet tomatoes, cheese, and garlic in an easy
one dish meal" and then adds, even more helpfully, "This is fork food, not
finger food."
Velouté of Bittersweet Chocolate with
Cinnamon Stick Ice Cream
[Thomas
Keller: The French Laundry Cookbook p. 286]
Keller
does not explain that a velouté is traditionally a savory sauce made with veal,
chicken, or fish stock; his use of the term here is meant to suggest a texture,
not a taste. He assumes (perhaps
correctly) that no one trying to cook (or daydream) from his book needs this
explanation.
Beet and Apple Strudel
[Barbara
Kafka with Christopher Styler: Vegetable Love p. 176]
Kafka,
one of the most intelligent recipe writers on the face of the planet, here
forgets that a strudel, which is a multilayered Eastern European pastry, can be
either sweet or savory, and so can beets and apples, especially in Eastern
Europe. Even when I read down the list
of ingredients, I'm not sure which this strudel is supposed to be. Half a pound of beets and one large apple
call for only ¼ cup of brown sugar. To
my mind, a beet and apple strudel might make a sweet but not too sweet side
dish with a nice pork roast; then again, it might make a sweet but not too
sweet dessert. I'd probably like it
either way.